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Supermiata Street Alignment
For most street driven Miatas, tire wear is the most important parameter. Excess toe in or out will usually cause more tire wear than somewhat aggressive camber will. The OEM alignment numbers with more rear camber than in front, are designed to induce a bit of understeer. Lawyers ultimately dictate the OEM alignment, not the clever engineeers that designed the suspension. The actual suspension geometry is designed to require greater front than rear camber. The SuperMiata Street Alignment will generally result in no increase in tire wear over OEM and possibly a reduction in tire wear if you occasionally load the tires to maximum cornering forces. In general, this Street alignment is conservative and intended for cars that never slide their tires and spend almost no time at maximum conrnering loads.
NOTE: This alignment will require a slightly larger front sway bar. NB factory, FM or Racing Beat 1" solid bars will work. The RB 1.125 bar is to much for normal street tires (>240 treadwear). The Street Alignment may cause a 100% stock Miata to oversteer, or be too "loose".
>=5.25" front pinch weld height
Front camber: -1.4°
Front total toe: 1/16"
Rear camber : -1°
Rear total toe: 1/8"
SuperMiata Dual Duty Alignment (cars that see regular street use and some track/autocross)
In general, the Dual Duty alignment is intended for cars that will occasionally reach the limits of traction and slide the tires but don't want to give up too much tire wear for daily driving.
>=12" front ride height (measured hub center to fender)
>=4.75" front pinch weld height
Front camber: -2° (or as close as you can get to it)
Front total toe: 0
Rear camber : -1.7°
Rear total toe: 0 for track use. + 1/8" for autocross
SuperMiata Race Alignment
The Race Alignment is intended to win national championships. YRMV
Best suited for high grip tires such as Hoosier DOT, Toyo RR, etc
3.75~ 4.5" front pinch weld height. Xida's tend to work best for competition use with front pinch weld height close to 4.2".
Front camber: -3.5° (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: >+4.5° or max available once you reach camber targets
Front total toe: 0
Rear camber : -3.0°
Rear total toe: +1/16~1/8"
Variations and extra stuff
The Miata seems to work best with about .25" positive rake (rear higher) measured at the pinch welds without driver in car and about 1/4 tank. It seems the the roll center axis doesn't like to be too far out of sync with the roll centers. In general, you can lower the rake to increase rear grip and improve transitional stability up to the point that the rear suspension begins to bottom. Lower the front to increase front grip and turn in response, again, until it begins to bottom the suspension excessively. In general, once we have an alignment we like, the only tuning we do at the track is to raise and lower the rear to fine tune. Lower to add rear grip, raise to reduce it. Too low and the suspension will bottom so that's your limiter.